From scholarly layers and chunky loafers to sheer organza and metallic silk, Sasha Gella of Vintagella Moda shows how to give a vintage Ebano wool skirt a dose of Milanese intellectual chic

There is something wonderfully bookish about a great pleated wool skirt. Add a cashmere cardigan, crisp shirt, serious-looking loafers and perhaps a pair of tortoiseshell glasses, and suddenly you have one of fashion’s most enduring Italian looks.

For the seventh instalment of Vintagella Moda’s Styling Vintage Fashion Pieces series, we are exploring an authentic Ebano pleated skirt dating from the 1980s/1990s. Made from pure virgin wool, the skirt has a traditional kilt-inspired appearance and a rich dark-brown patterned palette that makes it particularly versatile for autumn and winter.

Its slightly scholarly character also makes it a natural fit for the cerebral style long associated with Miuccia Prada: classic pieces combined in unexpected ways, often with deliberately sensible shoes, unusual colours or an element that makes an otherwise conventional outfit feel distinctly individual.

British Vogue has described Miuccia Prada’s personal aesthetic as a unique form of “cerebral chic”, with the designer herself frequently combining cashmere sweaters, statement skirts and elegant but practical shoes.

The look feels especially relevant now. British Vogue identified “literary chic” as a key fashion trend, highlighting intellectual everyday dressing, knitted polos, skirts, rich colours and layered separates.

And the skirt itself is having another major moment. Following the Spring/Summer 2027 shows, British Vogue declared 2027 “the year of the skirt”, pointing to renewed enthusiasm for everything from pleated and pencil skirts to colourful midis and statement styles.

So how can you make a vintage Ebano skirt work today? Sasha Gella, our style adviser, presents three ways to wear it.

Look 1 – Milanese intellectual office wear

Scholarly tailoring with an Italian edge

For the first look, embrace the slightly unconventional styling combinations that have become such an important part of the Prada aesthetic.

Start with the dark-brown virgin-wool Ebano skirt and pair it with elegant pumps and opaque knee-high stockings. The contrast gives a traditional skirt an unexpected contemporary edge without turning the outfit into a costume.

Balance the heavier, structured wool with a fine-knit cardigan in cashmere or merino. Grey, black, navy, espresso and camel are all excellent choices because they sit naturally alongside the skirt’s autumnal palette. Underneath, add a crisp Oxford shirt in white or pale blue. Let the collar remain visible and avoid making everything too neat. A little relaxed layering is part of the appeal.

This combination of pleated skirt, knitwear and classic shirting has strong links to the scholarly aesthetic. British Vogue’s guide to preppy dressing highlights pleated skirts, loafers, shirts and cardigans among the pieces that give the look its academic character.

For the bag, choose something structured enough for work. A leather document bag is ideal, or try the chocolate-brown Francesco Biasia office bag available at Vintagella Moda. Add a slim belt to define the waist. For something a little less conventional, wear it over an open blazer rather than underneath.

The finishing touch?

Glasses.

Horn-rimmed frames work beautifully, as do small round metal spectacles reminiscent of the classic Gandhi style. They do not need to contain prescription lenses. Here they are simply another accessory helping to create that cultured, intellectual mood.

Look 2 – Intellectual weekend style

Relaxed dressing for galleries, cafés and cultural weekends

The same skirt can become considerably more relaxed when worn with heavier knitwear. Choose a chunky cable-knit jumper in cashmere or wool, preferably in a neutral shade, and wear it slightly loose.

Rather than tucking the whole jumper into the skirt, tuck only the front into the waistband. It defines the silhouette without losing the easy, slightly dishevelled feel that makes this look work. It is exactly the sort of outfit suited to a weekend spent browsing a gallery, visiting a museum, seeing a film at an independent cinema or settling into a favourite café.

Footwear can completely change its character. Choose leather loafers with a chunky lugged sole for a stronger Prada-inspired look, then wear them with visible knitted socks.

Prada has repeatedly played with this collision between traditional wardrobe staples and unexpected proportions. British Vogue’s examination of Prada styling shows how familiar pieces such as blazers, skirts, brogues and ladylike bags can be made far more interesting through unusual styling details and colour combinations.

Add a crossbody bag for practicality.

Then lean into the academic mood with thick tortoiseshell frames – the classic “nerd glasses” – and finish with a bucket hat.

The result should feel considered rather than overly coordinated.

Look 3 – Intellectual evening glamour

Virgin wool meets organza, silk and metallics

For evening, use contrast. The masculine character of the Ebano skirt’s heavy virgin wool provides the perfect backdrop for delicate, feminine fabrics.

A high-neck, slightly sheer organza blouse in yellow or rust orange is particularly effective. The high neckline keeps the silhouette sophisticated, while the transparency introduces a more sensual element. Against the skirt’s traditional wool, the contrast feels unexpected and thoroughly modern.

Alternatively, choose a metallic-gold silk blouse, including the style available at Vintagella Moda. The softness and sheen of silk transform the skirt immediately, proving that a substantial winter fabric need not be restricted to daytime dressing.

For an additional Italian flourish, wear a men’s-style watch with a leather strap over the blouse sleeve, inspired by the famously individual way Gianni Agnelli wore his watch. Add pumps in burgundy or metallic gold. Both colours work particularly well against brown and introduce depth without fighting with the skirt’s pattern.

Sheer fine-gauge stockings keep the outfit elegant, while a clutch tucked casually beneath the arm creates a less formal finish than carrying it conventionally by hand.

Top everything with a short, boxy blazer in a complementary shade of brown.

Jewellery should be restrained. Small geometric gold studs work beautifully, as do classic pearl earrings.

Why colour matters with this skirt

One of the Ebano skirt’s greatest strengths is its colour palette. Its brown and autumnal tones provide an unusually flexible foundation.

For understated dressing, combine it with espresso, camel, cream, navy, charcoal or black. For something stronger, introduce rust orange, mustard yellow, burgundy or even metallic gold.

The key is to allow the skirt’s pattern to remain visible. A solid-coloured top gives the eye somewhere to rest and prevents the outfit from becoming too busy. This does not mean the top has to be dull. A strong block colour can actually make the skirt’s darker pattern appear richer.

For more inspiration on building outfits around colour, see Vintagella Moda’s guide to the colour trends shaping 2026 and 2027 fashion.

Mix heavy and light textures

The skirt is equally useful for experimenting with texture. Pure virgin wool has weight, structure and a visibly substantial finish. Instead of matching it with similarly heavy fabrics from head to toe, use contrast to create interest.

A fine cashmere cardigan softens it. Sheer organza makes it feel more feminine. Silk introduces movement and shine. A crisp cotton Oxford shirt creates a cleaner, more tailored combination. This interplay between heavy and delicate materials is particularly effective in autumn and winter, when layering gives you far more opportunities to experiment.

For more ideas on combining different fabrics successfully, see Vintagella Moda’s guide to texture mixing the Italian way.

Why the classic pleated skirt is modern again

Pleated skirts have a remarkable ability to move between different fashion identities. They can look school-inspired and preppy with a shirt and loafers, traditionally British when worn with wool and knitwear, unmistakably Italian when combined with silk, metallic accessories and sleek tailoring, or contemporary when teamed with oversized knits and chunky shoes.

This Ebano skirt lends itself particularly well to that crossover approach. Its kilt-inspired pattern provides a traditional element, while its simple shape makes it easy to combine with more modern Italian styling. It also illustrates why vintage clothes do not need to be recreated exactly as they were worn first time around.

The interest comes from taking an authentic piece from another era and combining it with clothes that give it a new context.

The enduring appeal of Ebano

This well-preserved vintage Ebano skirt is made from pure virgin wool and dates from the 1980s/1990s. Ebano is an Italian fashion label that no longer exists in its original form as a fashion house. Its name – ebano is Italian for ebony – suits the dark, sophisticated character of this particular piece.

More importantly, the skirt reflects qualities that make vintage Italian clothing so desirable: good materials, careful construction, versatility and a design that remains wearable decades after it was produced.

Its relevance now is particularly striking. With skirts once again dominating the international fashion conversation and designers revisiting preppy, literary and intellectually inspired dressing, the Ebano skirt feels unexpectedly current.

Wear it with cashmere and loafers for the office. Add a chunky jumper and tortoiseshell glasses for the weekend. Or combine virgin wool with organza, silk and gold for an evening look.

Three very different outfits, all built around the same vintage skirt.

And that is precisely what makes a good vintage purchase worth keeping.

For personalised advice on styling vintage Italian autumn and winter fashion, contact Sasha Gella, style adviser at Vintagella Moda.